2014-12-14 Pinnacle Peak

We hoped to make an earlier start than last week to allow plenty of daylight for The Castle and maybe a few minor peaks, but alas, the gate at Longmire was to remain locked until 9 am. We left the Narada Falls lot 9:45 and climbed icy talus up to Stevens Canyon Road with a pair who said they were heading for Unicorn Peak. Tahoma was fully lit up by late morning sun when we reached Reflection Lakes and began up the trail. Near the saddle we crossed a few short-but-steep snowfields with substantial exposure. About a foot of workable snow obscured most of the trail on the shady side of the ridge.






As indicated by fast-moving clouds above, the wind was pretty intense at the saddle and for most of our stay on the sunny south face. Trekking poles were exchanged for ice axes as we began the mixed scramble above the saddle. Closer to the top most of the rock was poking out of the snow, but there was still enough ice for crampons to remain necessary. For the second time in as many weeks I was in position to view Mount Hood sitting in the distance between Adams and St Helens. I would say that our route was always within class 3 territory, however a fall could have potentially resulted in a 2000' tumble into the valley below.





Near the top we reached a small pillar at the edge of an overhang to the north, a potential BASE exit point? From there the going only got easier. The summit had plenty of room for the group, but heavy wind pushed us down a few feet to a sunny spot for lunch. The Castle and Unicorn Peak emerged from the clouds as we ate.




Time was getting short, so we canceled plans for the traverse to The Castle and began our descent, hoping to be able to hit Plumber Peak on the way out. We rappelled from near the pillar and made it back to the saddle with an hour and a half left until the park gate would be closed. As much as I would have loved to get in another summit, the wise choice was to play it safe. We followed Paradise Road back to the cars to avoid the still icy talus above Narada Falls.








5.5 miles 2200' gain